While you probably think of tunnbrödsrulle as something you eat after a night on town if you’re Swedish, trunnbröd itself has a long history which has little to do with being a late night food!
For the uninitiated, tunnbröd is the Swedes’ equivalent of tortillas—available both in soft and hard (crispy) versions. To make a tunnbrödsrulle (which directly translates to “thin bread roll”...a wrap, in other words) you need the soft version.
Today tunnbröd is usually made with rye and/or wheat, but it wasn’t always made that way.
Back in the day, people didn’t have the option to store things as securely as we do today. For that reason, you couldn’t get hold of fresh flour throughout the year. It could get moldy, infested with vermin, destroyed by frost, and so forth. So people wanted to use the flour as soon as it was ground.
As a result of this, people got together for “storbaket” (the big bake) and made thin crispbread that could be stored safely, sometimes even for years. Both knäckebröd (crispbread) and tunnbröd were made this way.
Tunnbröd is famously known to come from the North of Sweden and up there, there were less days for harvesting (as the weather is worse) and frost would come sooner than in the South. This meant that people didn’t have a lot of flour and what was had, had to be used before the winter frost came knocking and destroyed it.
In other words, you didn’t have access to a lot of flour up North.
As a result of this, and due to “bad years” for harvests, bread wasn’t only made with regular flour from oats, rye, and wheat, but also potatoes, and flour made from bark.
And let’s not forget that bread was first baked outdoors over an open fire (hence why people got together to bake—bringing the accessories needed to make the bread and helping each other out).
Later, there were indoor fireplaces—eventually with ovens—but it wasn’t until the 1800s that the iron stove made its entry into the kitchen. In fact, from 1622-1747 households with a “baking oven” (i.e. a kind of stone fireplace with a built-in oven) were considered so rich they were taxed especially for the oven.
In the 1700s “baking cottages” that could be used by several people also started becoming popular, but in the very North of Sweden people still made bread outdoors over open fires as late as the early 20th century.
Another important consideration was that up North, they had “korn,” not the more glutinous wheat that was grown in the south. As such, it wasn’t so easy to make sourdough. Instead, the thin bread that didn’t need to rise was a better option.
Once flour became more readily available and more or less everyone had an oven of their own in the mid 1900s, tunnbröd became easier to make and people shifted to making it with mainly rye and wheat. Of course, once Polarbröd started mass producing it, pretty much everyone had access to it in local stores, which eventually led to the epic success of the tunnbrödsrulle.
However, tunnbröd is still linked to the North of Sweden and the Sami who live up there (the Swedish inuit population) are known to serve up incredible tunnbrödsrullar. Albeit, not with the ingredients Bourdain got to try. You’re more likely to get a tunnbröd with reindeer meat, just like you can at the popular Swedish amusement park Skansen where you can also learn to make tunnbröd in an old “baking cottage.”
If you love history,
you should read this article about the origins of tunnbröd (it’s in Swedish, but there’s always Google translate).